Wednesday, 2 December 2015

Kim & Flora Dress



How long has it been since I promised you a certain dress? 2 Months? 3 Months? It seems I shouldn't make announcements here anymore, even though this time the delay wasn't really my fault.

I wanted to photograph the dress after our friends' wedding in october, which I made it for, but due to lucky circumstances my boyfriend got a longterm freelance position in another city. So we had to move because commuting everyday for 5 hours wasn't really a good option. And as you can probably imagine, an apartment full of cardboard boxes is definitely not the best place to make some photos and outside wasn't an option anymore. Winter is coming apparently!
When the move was done and we were happily living in our new place in Berlin, it took the internetprovider another month to get us a decent internet connection.We haven't unpacked all the boxes yet, but at least I can finally upload the dress.

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Zum heutigen MeMadeMittwoch geht es hier entlang.

Wie lange ist das nun schon her, seit ich euch das neue Kleid versprochen habe? 2 Monate? 3 Monate? Es scheint so, als sollt eich hier keine ANkündigungen mehr machen, es kommt ja doch nur wieder etwas dazwischen.Diesmal war es aber gar nicht meine Schuld. Wirklich!

Ich wollte das Kleid kurz nach der Hochzeit unserer Freunde, wofür ich es genäht hatte, im Oktober posten, aber aufgrund (un-)glücklicher Umstände wurde meinem Freund eine länger andauernde Freelance-Position in einer anderen Stadt angeboten. Also mussten wir kurzerhand umziehen, denn jeden Tag 5 Stunden Pendeln wär ein bisschen zu viel des Guten. Und mit so vielen (schweren!!)Büchern, wie wir besitzen, ist eben mal Umziehen auch keine schnelle Aktion mehr.Auch wenn ich gerne das Kleid damals fotografiert hätte, Pappkartons sind eben kein spannender Hintergrund und für draußen war es schon zu kalt.
Als der Umzug vorbei war und wir uns ein bisschen eingelebt hatten, erfuhren wir, dass es noch einen ganzen Monat dauern würde bis die Telekom uns den Internetanschluss zu Verfügung stellen würde.Nun ja...ausgepackt ist noch nicht alles, aber wenigstens kann ich über das Kleid berichten.




I choose the Kim bodice and skirt of the Flora dress by ByHandLondon to make my dress for the weddingparty. Originally I wanted to sew the dipped hem variation, but decided against it when I was almost finished. But more to that later. I chose the smallest size which fit me perfectly without any alterations besides the 1cm less at the centerback.
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Wie schon in meiner Illustration im Post davor geteasert,hatte ich mich für eine Kombination aus zwei Kleidern von ByHandLondon entschieden: für das Oberteil Kim und für den Rock Flora.Ursprünglich wollte ich den Saum nähen, der hinten etwas länger war, aber habe mich dann kurz vor Ende dagegen entschieden, aber später dazu mehr. Ich habe die kleinste Größe (34?) ausgewählt, weil meine Maße genau die gleichen wie in der Größentabelle waren. Somit passte das Kleid, mal abgesehen von ein paar cm weniger in der Rückenmitte, perfekt!



I used a super soft and slippery polyester fabric from Ma petite mercerie, that had a really nice drape and feel to it. As I was so happy about my online-purchase, I only realized much later that it might not at all be suitable for the dress I wanted to make. It had princess seams after all. So a decision was made to buy some lightweight voile to underline all the bodice pieces to give it slightly more structure. I basted both the voile and polyester together by hand to avoid stretching both fabrics as little as possible.
To cut this slippery fabric I used the Paper-Sandwich-method and cut it in one layer, which worked very well. It just took ages! Other than that I followed the clear instructions from the pretty booklet and the sewalong and it was not really difficult to sew. Besides a little handsewing while attaching the lining to the zip even the invisible zipper was easy. No problems there

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Ich benutzte einen sehr weich fallenden Polyester Stoff, den ich online bei Ma petite mercerie gefunden hatte.Er fühlte sich trotz Polyesters ausgesprochen gut an und ich war recht zufrieden mit meinem Einkauf, bis mir einfiel, dass der Stoff für das Kleid vielleicht nicht die beste Auswahl war. Gerade aufgrund der Wiener Nähte(ist das die richtige Übersetzung dafür?) benötigte ich eigentlich etwas mehr Griffigkeit und Struktur im Stoff. Also beschloss ich den Polyester noch mit einem leichten Baumwoll-voile zu unterfüttern. Dafür habe ich die beiden Stofflagen vor dem Zusammennähen per Hand zusammengeheftet, damit sich nichts verzieht.
Damit der Stoff beim SChneiden nicht allzu stark verrutscht, habe ich gleich mal die Papier-Sandwich-Methode ausprobiert, was wunderbar geklappt hat. Aber leider hat das ganze ewig gedauert, bestimmt zwei Stunden!Aber das Ergebnis war es wert! Ansonsten war das Nähen recht einfach, die Anleitung war klar und zusätzlich gibt es auf der Internetseite noch den Sewalong. Auch der unsichtbare Reißverschluss war kein Problem, aber den habe ich ja nun auch schon oft genug genäht.




When it came to finish the hem of the dress I was a bit lost though. As this is a circle skirt, the skirt stretched out very unevenly and I wasn't sure how to even out the dipped hem by myself. I still don't have dressform, so that was not an option, the boyfriend wasn't much help either...Therefore I took the radical route and made a normal circle skirt out of it, which was much easier to cut to the right length. Of course that meant it was a bit shorter than planned, but I actually like it like that. Hemming wasn't hard, I choose the usual tiny folded hem for it. Byhandlondon has a tutorial for that on their blog as well: click here.

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Als ich den Saum nähen wollte, kam ich aber etwas ins Stocken. Aufgrund der Natur des Tellerrocks, verzog sich der Saum natürlich ungleichmäßig und ich hatte keine Idee wie ich ihn alleine wieder auf die gleiche Länge des Schnittmusters bekommen sollte. Gerade mit diesem schöneren längeren Teil auf der Rückseite.Da ich keine Schneiderpuppe habe und mein Freund auch nicht wirklich helfen konnte, entschied ich mich für den radikalen Weg und machte einen normalen Tellerrock daraus, der wesentlich einfacher auf die richtige Länge zu bringen war. Natürlich wurde er dadurch ein bisschen kürzer als geplant, aber eigentlich finde ich die Länge ganz süß so. Das eigentliche Säumen war dann nicht schwer, es dauerte nur ewig. Für die Art von Saum hat byHandLondon auch gleich eine Anleitung auf ihrer Website: hier klicken.



Otherwise I'm super happy with the dress, even though it might be not the perfect dress for a wedding with a 5-course meal with a big cake for dessert, hahaha!

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Ansonsten bin ich sehr zufrieden mit dem Kleid, auch wenn es für ein 5-Gänge-Menü mit riesiger Hochzeitstorte als Dessert eher weniger geeignet war, hahaha!

Beim Me Made Mittwoch ist heute Ann-Sophie mit einem beeindruckenden Frack die Gastgeberin. Hier gehts zurück zum MMM.

Tuesday, 1 December 2015

Friday, 21 August 2015

Coucou! Roxanne blouse and new plans

I'm back! I didn't have much motivation to sew anything the last months, so there was nothing to blog about.

But I bought this beauty last week and I want to make a dress for a wedding with it, which takes place in October. The muslin is already done, so I should have no problem finishing it before the party.



But of course I need to show you the Roxanne Blouse.

To be honest, I don't like the style on me. Maybe I have to get used to it, but somehow dresses and tops who are very loose around the waist, don't look very nice on my figure. The blouse was fairly easy to sew, the only problem I run into was the amount of bulk at the neckline. Both fabrics were super thin, but it was problematic nevertheless, even though I understitched and pressed the collar like a maniac. Therefore the neckline is a bit crooked unfortunately. With all the troube I had with the neckline, the rest was a breeze to sew. I used french seams for the side seams and shoulders and the hem is probably one of the best I ever did. It definitely paid off that I waited so long to do it.







Sorry for the short post, it's so long ago, that I've sewn the Roxanne blouse, so I don't remember so much anymore. I will try to show more about the dress in a few weeks!

Friday, 17 April 2015

Roxanne Blouse Illustration



Sie ist bald fertig. Bald!

Ich habe mich ewig aufgehalten die Ärmel bei meiner Roxanne Bluse mit dem Schrägband zu versäubern. So lag sie bestimmt 2 Monate traurig auf meinem Nähstapel und keiner hat sich um sie gekümmert. Nun ja, bald ist sie fertig.

Aber es gibt noch weitere Neuigkeiten: die liebe Marie von vonmri.blogspot.com hat meinen Blog als Lieblingsblog in Handmadekultur genannt. Drum gibt es dort jetzt ein kleines Feature. Vielen, vielen Dank, liebe Marie! Auch für die netten Worte! Bitte besucht auch ihren Blog, die Alice im Wunderland Kostüme vom Februar waren super beeindruckend!


She is finished soon! Just a little bit more patience.

It took me forever to pick it up and finish the armholes with biastape of my Roxanne blouse. I hate this step so much in sewing that she laid around forever on my sewing pile. Now only the hem needs hemming. Soon she will be finished!

Monday, 12 January 2015

The big Adventure

Happy New Year everyone! It's again a bit late, but I wanted to finish this project first to have something that I can show you here.
Frohes Neues! Ich bin damit mal wieder spät dran, aber ich wollte erst das Projekt beenden, damit ich was zum Vorzeigen habe. Und ich konnte gleich mal beim Me-made-mittwoch mitmachen.



I decided to make something, that I was probably/definitely to inexperienced for, but I said to myself if I don't try it I won't know. And I always wanted to sew that kind of garment since I started sewing roughly a year ago.

So I made a coat.

Ich hatte mich entschieden etwas zu nähen für das ich wahrscheinlich zu wenig Erfahrung hatte, aber woher soll ich das sicher wissen, wenn ich es nicht ausprobiere.

Ich habe mir also einen Mantel genäht.


I've sewn it over the course of my christmas vacation, when my boyfriend was working on his comic. We stayed in a little apartment in the black forest with snow all around us outside. It was really lovely. We usually can't stay away from work on vacations so this time we decided to bring some work with us, which filled our time after hiking trough the snow for 3 hours.

I've never inserted sleeves before or sewn any kind of collar before, but I was sure a coat shouldn't be to hard to do right?
And I must say, the one I did was manageable. Next time I should stiffen it a little bit more with a thicker interfacing though, as it doesn't stand perfectly. I made some mistakes along the way and learnt a lot about the problems of bulk but I think the endproduct is not too bad. I'm actually pretty proud.

Damit begonnen habe ich über die Weihnachtsferien,während mein Freund an seinem Comicprojekt weiterarbeitete. Wir hatten eine kleine Ferienwohnung im Schwarzwald gemietet und wenn wir nicht draußen im Schnee rumliefen, genossen wir die Ruhe und nähten/arbeiteten.

Ich hatte bisher noch keine Ärmel eingesetzt oder einen Kragen genäht, aber ich habe mir gedacht, dass es doch nicht so schwer sein kann, nicht wahr? Es ist nicht perfekt (nächstes Mal sollte ich den Kragen etwas mehr verstärken)und ich habe einige Fehler gemacht, aber das Endergebnis ist ansehnlich und ich bin ziemlich stolz drauf, was ich mit meinem geringen Wissen geschafft habe.


As a base I used the Andy Coat pattern by named but realised, that I wanted the front to look a bit different so I redrafted the front completely (which meant altering all the facing and lining pieces as well). I decided to go with a standcollar and contrastpanels to make the coat look more interesting as well.
But I have to say that I'm always impressed at how easy it is to work with the pattern from named. The Pdf-pattern always fit together like a charm (even though they don't have any diamondshapes on them), are explained very well and I don't have to make a lot of alterations for my bodytype.
I chose the smallest size but took the sideseams in a tiny bit. The back might be a bit too wide, but I decided to leave it like that, so I have more room for movement.

Als Basis habe ich das Andy coat Schnittmuster von named benutzt, jedoch habe ich die Vorderseite komplett neu konstruiert, damit sie so aussieht, wie ich sie mir vorgestellt habe. Geplant waren ein Standkragen und ein Kontraststoff für die Ärmelenden und den Schulterbereich. Die Hüfte- und Taillemaße habe ich außerdem noch ein bisschen an den Seitennähten verringert.



I bought the main fabric from alfatex when I was in Kassel in November and it was nice to work with it. No fraying and prewashable, as it is a wool-cotton mix. The contrast fabric was a very lightweight 100% wool from my stash, so I basically just sewed it on top of the main fabric otherwise it would've been to thin and unstable for the shoulders. For the lining I decided on a silver polyester from ma petite mercerie to add a bit of fancy to the inside.
I interfaced everything mentioned in the pattern with a fusible woven interfacing and added a backstay to keep the back from stretching out (or so I've heard). It was just some stable cotton from my stash.

Im Gegenteil zu Leipzig hat Kassel denn Stoffladen alfatex, in dem es auch gute Stoffe zu erschwinglichen Preisen gibt und dort habe ich glücklicherweise den strukturierten Woll-Baumwoll-Stoff gefunden. Den dunkelblauen Kontraststoffe hatte ich damals für die Chantaigne shorts von Deer & Doe gekauft und hatte noch genug Rest übrig für den Mantel. Allerdings musste ich ihn als zweite Lage auf den Hauptstoff nähen, da er zu dünn und unstabil als einzelne Lage für die Schulter gewesen wäre. Der Futterstoff ist silbernes Polyester von "Ma petite Mercerie", einem Stoffladen aus Frankreich, bei dem ich bestimmt wieder bestellen werde, weil sie so tolle Stoffe haben.





As you can see above I've made a little mistake when drafting my front and I had to fix itsomehow, that's why there is this little extra triangle. But I think it's actually a detail which doesn't look too bad quite the opposite actually. I added some handstitching to the lining and the hem but other than that all was done by machine. I'm not sure I like handstitching on the lining though, I'll probably understitch it by machine next time.

Bei der Konstruktion der Vorderseite ist mir leider ein kleiner Fehler unterlaufen und ich hatte nur noch blauen Stoff mitgenommen. Deswegen sieht man da jetzt dieses kleine Dreieck, das ich zusätzlich angenäht hatte, um meinen Mantel zu retten. Ich habe außerdem als Versuch den Futterstoff per Hand untergesteppt, allerdings bin ich mir nicht sicher, ob es mir gefällt. Beim nächsten Mal mache ich es einfach wieder per Machine.



I also didn't practise the welt pockets, so it was a win or totally mess it up situation.The tutorial I used was from Pattern Runway's blog and I think they look good for my first try. The inserting of the sleeves was easier than I thought. I used the method by Alison Smith from a Craftsy course, which is basically gathering the sleeves after you've pinned the notches together and not before. But the fabric and pattern might have helped a bit as well, as there isn't so much ease to contribute.

Die Leistentasche habe ich vorher nicht üben können weil ich mir keine SToffreste mitgenommen hatte. Also musste ich mein Glück gleich an den Taschen vom Mantel versuchen und ich bin ganz zufrieden mit ihnen. Die Ärmel habe ich erst im Ärmelloch eingekräuselt, so konnte ich den zusätzlichen Stoff besser einschätzen, der verteilt werden musste.



I think I will not add the planned button yet, because I like it more as an opened coat, but I will see how my opinion will change. I wore it for the first time today and it was quite warm with a pullover underneath. But I'm still not comfortable with actually wearing my handmade garments. I always fear someone sees all the flaws and mistakes, which is probably very silly, but I can't shake those thoughts off. I hope that gets better with time and skill. ;)

Und hier gehts wieder zum MMM.

Saturday, 8 November 2014

Jade skirt embroidery

I felt a bit bad, that I didn't have an illustration for the jade skirt, so I decided to try out embroidery.

I didn't have a clue what I was doing, I just experimented on the whole thing. I also just had two colors. But sometimes I like to do things without any knowledge beforehand... it's very freeing, because you're not afraid to do the wrong thing as you don't know what's the right way to do it. So this is probably very ugly to embroidery-lovers, but I had fun for the past evenings.

Thursday, 6 November 2014

Paprika Pattern's Jade skirt



Whoops, what happened with your wall you might ask. Well we're renovating our bedroom and it turned out to be the perfect backdrop and sunny room for the first Pattern the "Jade Skirt" by Paprika Pattern. The wallpaper-removing-action is also the reason why I didn't have time to draw an illustration for this pattern unfortunately. Maybe I can do that later.

I was already aware that I'm a fan of mini skirts but this one is truly awesome. Super comfortable and it has a lovely and interesting front through the folds even though it's a solid fabric. Plus it's super easy to sew, I put it together in one evening! And the third positive thing about it: it's not shifting up my legs. I don't know if it's the fabric or the weight of it (it's lined with the same fabric, so it's a bit heavier than other jersey skirts that I own)but it stays where it's supposed to.



I made version A without the zipper in size 2, but took it in slightly at the side seams in the fitting stage, maybe about 0,5cm on both sides. The underside of the folds is probably not very pretty, because I tried what worked best for securing the folds. No one will see it anyway. In the end it was best to put the needle in the left position and use a triple stretch stitch close to the fold instead of the zig-zag. The fabric is a knit with good recovery that I had in my stash since spring, when I went to my first fabric market. I always wanted to make a jade out of it, so I waited patiently for the pattern to be released.



You can get it on a "pay what you want"-basis on their website. As I am a freelancer myself I personally pay a decent price for the hard work of putting a pattern together, but it's completely your decision how much you want to give.
I already tested it out, when I was out with my boyfriend to have dinner and I love it. It's also possible to wear it with more casual shoes in my lazy not-doing-anything-days because it's so comfortable! I highly recommend it.

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Finished: The Nascha Mini Skirt

I got my machine back!

I have no idea what the sewing machine guys did with it, but I works so well again. Oddly enough... I can sew slower than I could before. I'm not complaining though, it's nice to have a little more control.



On to the Nascha Mini skirt, in grey as you probably already figured out because of my illustration two days ago!
The pattern is from the company Named from Finland run by two sisters, which should be well known by now. I bought one of their patterns before but didn't find a good jersey to sew with. But when I saw their new patterns I definitely fell in love with the Wenona shirt and this little Miniskirt called Nascha.

Unfortunately I haven't found any other bloggers who sewed this skirt yet... I usually like to read experiences other people had with a pattern so I can decide if I'am able to do this. But I took the jump and didn't regret it. I think this is a very cool basic, very flattering skirt pattern.



During the construction process of the toile I've run into some trouble, because I missunderstood the constructions a little bit. It was a Friday evening when I wrote an email to the sisters of Named and I immediately got a response on Saturday. It was weekend after all, so I didn't expect them to respond to customers so early. But they were super friendly and helpful, so a big thumbs up for that!

After that it took a while until I could find the time to sew again and I did want to take my time to do everthing right and neat. Everyday I sewed around 1-3 steps of the construction process until I finished it and I'm super proud of the final garment! It's not perfect as this was my first exposed zipper, but I love it anyway.

The fabric and the lining were both from one of those annual fabric markets, so I don't know exactly what they're made of. The lining is acetat, but feels very nice nevertheless. It also has a subtle stripe pattern which I like a lot.



I sewed a size 34 but made some alterations: I added 1 cm in the center back to give some more room for my booty,added 1cm of length to the front dart and also used a 16cm long zipper because I couldn't find a 15cm long one unfortunately. The whole zipper insertion was very fiddly I have to admit. Invisible zippers are no problem but exposed ones are not the easiest to insert when the rest of the skirt is already sewn together and doesn't really want to lie flat on the table. It looks a bit wonky but I managed as you can see.

I do want to try and sew this pattern again, but maybe in a lovely color that's not so grey and next time I will probably use an invisible zipper...or practise exposed zippers to be awesome at them some day!

Monday, 29 September 2014

Nascha Skirt Illu



The Nascha skirt is almost done, I will post it tomorrow or wednesday!

Friday, 5 September 2014

Senna tote and a pencil case



You probably wonder why I didn't blog for some time. There are several reasons for this:

1. The boring tale of my being busy with drawing my comic.

2. After two desastrous outcomes of trying to sew with cheap knitfabrics (don't do it!) I was kind of frustrated and sad and lost my motivation for a while. I tried to sew two of the papercut patterns but both turned out too small, even though I choose exactly the size based on their measurement chart. Next time I try one of their patterns I will choose the bigger size to not be disappointed a third time. I don't want to give up on them yet, as they have so many beautiful patterns!

Also, does anybody have tipps/tutorials for sewing with bias tape and sewing on neckbands? Everything I found so far, didn't eliminate gaping in the front and shoulders, but it might also be my bodyshape...

3.My sewing machine is currently on it's way to the seller, so they can fix the buttonhole problem and another one that made sewing impossible. I hope that doesn't take too long. I was in the middle of sewing a muslin for the Nascha mini skirt...

But after my knit debacle I decided to try something easy and new to get excited about sewing again, so I bought the Senna tote pattern.



I'm still very unsure about fabric descriptions and sometimes buy the wrong ones, which ends in tears and frustration. Therefore I decided to be on the safe side this time and buy the same fabric they used for the example bag. And I'm glad I did! I thought quiltweight means much heavier fabric, but I was super soft and lightweight.

The instructions were super easy to follow and I really enjoyed the whole construction. My machine had no problems sewing together the many layers in the end, but I did use a walking foot so maybe that helped. I managed to match the pattern of the pocket in the front but not in the back due to the irregular yellow part of the pattern. The only change I made was to add an removable long backstrap to the back of the bag to have the option to wear it over my shoulders.

The pencil case was made out of leftover fabric pieces without a pattern, just the usual squares with an additional pocket on the front, to have easy access to some of my pens.

I used some helpful diy tools for some of the construction steps, that I wanted to share. To make sure the topstitching of the straps was straight I taped one of my needlecases on my machine which functioned as a guide. I also used some old piece of wood, that I had lying around (in this case it was the back of my woodcut) as a clapper to receive a nicely pressed seam! Colette explained how to use a clapper well here.



I don't know how long my machine will be away, so I'm not sure when I will be able to finish the Nascha skirt.